如今，在快节奏的都市氛围中，有越来越多的男性感知到了绅装的魅力，选择将其穿进日常在满足场合需求及品味表达之外，真正热爱绅装文化的人是怎样的？Amidst the hustle and bustle of urban life, some people come to appreciate the sophistication of gentlemanly attire. What distinguishes those who wholeheartedly embrace the culture of polished dressing?。

📍 PRINCIPLE M | L1-15A本期《芳草碧连天》，我们特别对话西装定制品牌 PRINCIPLE M 的主理人 Justin，了解这位绅装店老板对当代着装的看法，以及他的生活经历In this issue of Bridging, we have a special conversation with Justin, the founder of PRINCIPLE M, to delve into his views on contemporary dressing and uncover his unique life experiences.。

Justin KwanPRINCIPLE M 主理人The founder of PRINCIPLE M

今年的热剧《繁花》好像让很多人又开始对定制西装产生了兴趣，对此您怎么看？The recent hit series "Blossom Shanghai" seems to have reignited peoples interest in tailored suits. Whats your take on this trend?

我还没抽出时间看这部剧，不过看了一些片段，我很喜欢其中裁缝店的片段老裁缝谈到了夏季面料之别，我深感认同，毕竟上海的气候冬冷夏热老裁缝还提到，穿西装要“人穿衣”而非“衣穿人”，强调西装要量体裁衣I haven’t found the time to watch the series, but I have seen some clips, such as the tailor shop clip. I love it. The old tailor talks about summer fabrics and winter fabrics, which I appreciate in a climate that has cold winters and hot summers like here. He also says you have to wear the suit, and not to let the suit wear you, pointing out that a good fitting tailored suit is key. 。

我钟爱年代剧，其中服装的设计营造了浓郁的时代氛围I’m a big fan of period pieces and from what I saw the clothing helped set the period.。

分享一下您第一次穿上西装的情景吧。Tell us about your first suit.

我记得第一次穿西装是去加利福尼亚参加表兄弟的婚礼那时，我和几个兄弟都需要得体的西装，但当地并没有裁缝店，所以只能买经过改制的成衣穿上西装的感觉非常棒，至今难以忘怀，之后我便爱上了穿西装的独特魅力和感觉I remember my first suit, it was for my cousin’s wedding in California. My brothers and I needed a decent suit but we didn’t have access to tailors where I was. So, the obvious choice was to get a ready to wear suit with some alterations. I remember dressing up that day, it felt good, I loved the way I looked and felt in a suit. 

什么时候有了开一家定制男装店的想法？When did the idea of establishing a custom menswear store first come to you?

在梅西百货工作时，我便对服装产生了浓厚的兴趣，年少时的大部分收入也都投入到了服装中大学毕业后，我决定去中国学习中文，并探索更多加入服装行业的机会I had a strong interest in clothing, sparked by working at Macy’s and spending much of my disposable income on clothing through my youth. After I graduated from university, I decided to move to China to learn Chinese and explore opportunities in the clothing industry. 。

有一天在北京语言大学上完中文课，我就在想，或者说幻想，有一天能在北京开一家属于自己的男装品牌店当时觉得，这个目标只是一个遥不可及的梦想，先在美国创立品牌似乎更切合实际但随即我意识到，要想开创这一品牌，必须近距离接触客户。

我当时正住在北京，便决定在此发展，着手打造自己的品牌——PRINCIPLE MI remember one day after my Chinese class at Beijing Language and Culture University, I thought, or dreamed, of one day opening my own menswear brand and shop right here in Beijing. At the time the goal felt like a dream, and I started a brand in the US first which seemed more logical and feasible, but I realized if I wanted to build this brand, one key would be having close proximity to my customers and I was living here in Beijing. So, I decided to go for it and start my brand, PRINCIPLE M, here in Beijing.

为什么会选择在侨福芳草地开第二家店？What motivated the choice of Parkview Green FangCaoDi for your second store location?

从第一次接触侨福芳草地直到现在，我一直很喜欢这个地方这里的露天布局设计，巧妙地融入了自然光，展现出一种有别于传统购物中心的独特艺术气息与格调，同我的期待与理念完美契合，是我开设新店的理想之选From the first time I visited Parkview Green FangCaoDi until now, I’ve always loved the space—from the open air layout and natural light, the art and feeling of a non-traditional shopping mall.  I always thought this would make a great fit. 。

很多人在刚接触西服时，都面临一个困局：如果穿成套的西服套装，在别人的目光下，还是感觉到有一丝格格不入有什么技巧能脱颖而出？When people first start wearing suits, many encounter a common issue: even in off-the-rack ones, they might still feel a bit uneasy in the eyes of others. Is there a way to feel more relaxed and stand out?。

多年以前，在我第一次穿上西装的时候，一种自信在心底油然而生，那种感觉令我着迷不过，经典男装的终极追求并非标新立异，而是让着装变的更为随性自在当然，倘若客户想要一种“花花公子”的风格，我们的男装店也可以让他收获开心的购物体验。

在我看来，经典男装应当兼具穿着的舒适与视觉的和谐，随性而不失雅致与协调When I first put on a suit years ago, I liked the feeling, the confidence it gave me. However, the ultimate goal with classical menswear is to feel relaxed and not stand out. Of course, if you like to dress like a dandy, our shop will be like a candy store for a kid. However, when dressing in classical menswear, the ultimate goal for me is to dress and look effortless, relaxed and never out of place. 

选购西装最棘手的问题在于如何找到一套合适的衣服，一旦衣服与身形不契合，就会给人一种凌乱的观感，同时也会让穿着者感到束缚与不适，甚至过于拘谨，难以展现出自然的姿态而 PRINCIPLE M 恰恰在此方面独具优势，我们拥有专业的设计团队，致力于为客户打造量身定制的西装，让每位客户都能穿得舒适、自然，展现出独有的风采。

The biggest challenge is getting a suit that fits, because if the fit is off you will look sloppy, it may be tight or uncomfortable or too rigid and you will have a hard time feeling relaxed. This is where we find our niche, we are professionals when it comes to delivering a tailored suit that fits. 

西装的另一个要点在于如何修饰人们的身材比例例如，如果身形较矮，可以设计高腰裤，通过简洁裁剪做出无褶皱的长裤，从而在视觉上拉长腿部线条；如果身材削瘦，我们可以为其量身定制西装，让穿着者看起来更为强壮结实；对于体型偏胖的顾客，我们也可以调整西装轮廓和剪裁方式，让人显得更苗条。

Another key point about a suit is how it can alter your proportions. For example, if you are short, we can create the illusion of longer legs with high-rise trousers and a clean cut trouser with no break. If you are slim, we can tailor a suit to make you look strong and if you are a bit heavy, we can make you look a bit more slender with the suit silhouette and cut. 

但同时，我们需要管理好客户预期，我们无法将身高165厘米、体重200斤变成身高190厘米、体重180斤，但我们可以在整体外观上尽力做出最佳改进即便是一些微小的改进，积累下来也会带来巨大改观But at the same time, expectations need to be managed, I can’t make someone who is 165cm and 100kg become 190cm and 90kg, but we can make some improvements to an overall appearance and small incremental improvements over time make a big difference.。

我认为将正装与休闲单品相融合是现今潮流在追求舒适的同时，混搭正装与休闲服饰显得尤为时尚比如针织衫配西装，牛仔裤搭西服，或是夹克配定制长裤和衬衫尝试不同搭配，让穿衣更随性，这是男装中的趣味所在学会穿得舒适、随性，即使穿一双白色运动鞋搭配西服，又有何不可？。

The fusion of formal attires sophistication with the casual comfort of everyday pieces stands as a hallmark of the contemporary style. This entails a harmonious blend of business and casual wear, ensuring comfort remains paramount. Imagine the chic juxtaposition of knitwear with a tailored suit, the relaxed vibe of denim paired with a crisp blazer, or the practical elegance of a jacket combined with custom-fitted trousers and a shirt. Daring to experiment with these eclectic ensembles brings a refreshing spontaneity to dressing, challenging us to embrace both comfort and a dash of casual elegance. Why not, indeed, pair white sneakers with a suit for an unexpected twist?

很多人都觉得定制西装是男性专属的，是这样吗？Some people believe that custom suits are only for men. Is it accurate?

虽然我们专精于男装定制，但也有许多女性顾客慕名来定制西装、衬衫和大衣另外，我们有数千种面料可供顾客选择，总会吸引一些追求个性的女性顾客Although we specialize in menswear, we also get a lot of female customers coming to us looking for quality tailored suits, shirts and coats. Another thing is we have thousands of fabrics to choose from, which always sparks the interest of discerning ladies looking for something special.。

在北京开店多年，客群是哪类人呢？您觉得他们的穿衣风格及态度是怎样的？Having been in operation for several years, what type of customers does PRINCIPLE M typically attract? What are your observations regarding the dressing style and attitude of them?

PRINCIPLE M 的客户分为几种不同类型第一种客户我们称之为“西装奇客”，是指那些眼光独到、对服装充满热爱、且热衷于穿着经典定制服装的绅士面对这类客户，我们特别开设了一个专栏，采访了20余位“西装奇客”，请他们分享各自的穿衣经验，非常具有启发性。

One is what we call a "suit geek", which is a discerning gentleman who dresses in classical tailored clothing out of his love for the clothing. We’ve even started a column with over 20 interviews of "

Suit Geeks" where they share their sartorial journey, which is quite inspiring.

第二类顾客是那些寻找货真价实服装的人，他们希望从像我们这样了解服装的团队手中购买产品正如牙疼的人不会草率地选择牙医，而是会四处咨询，力求找到医术精湛的牙医对于服装，我们的品牌和客户也抱有同样的审慎与要求。

The second type of customer is someone who comes looking for a genuine product from a team who knows clothing like we do. For example, if you have a tooth ache, you don’t just go to any dentist, you ask around and find the best. It’s kind of like that with our  brand and clients. 

所有客户都有一个共同点，即热爱与欣赏优质的服装，因此，与不同客户接触、交流，并为其设计服装十分令人愉悦经营这一品牌的过程中，我承担着各种职责，但我最为热衷的，还是与客户面对面交流时的那种亲切与充实With all of our customers, there is one thing in common, we all love and appreciate good clothing, so it’s very nice to meet the different customers, have a chat and then work on designing clothing for them. In fact, of all my duties and responsibilities of running this brand, meeting my customers face to face is my favorite part of my work. 

相信很多人在「绅装骑行」活动中看见过  Justin 的身影，这一活动的灵感源自哪里？Many have likely spotted Justin on a "Suit Ride" event. What is the inspiration behind this activity?

我有时会骑自行车上班，既能锻炼身体，又能避开拥挤的交通我发现，有些客户也有骑车的习惯，所以我在几年前策划了一次「绅装骑行」活动，之后便成为了一项流行活动期间，我们会带领众多身穿西装的女士和先生，在北京的各种路线上骑行。

Now and then I’d ride my bike to work, the benefit is I can get some exercise and avoid traffic. I realized several of our clients also had the habit of riding, so I planned a suit ride a few years ago and since then it took off and each ride, we take ladies and gentlemen, dressed in suits, on different routes in Beijing. 

这项活动之所以备受欢迎，原因有三点，首先，它让人们身着西装四处骑行；其次，它提供了骑车游览北京各个文化名胜的绝佳体验；最后，这是一场充满趣味的社交盛会，我们可以从中结交更多志同道合的朋友我非常期待在春季和秋季与大家一起骑行，共享这份乐趣。

The benefit is really 3 fold: we get to wear suits, ride around and see interesting parts of Beijing and have a fun and social activity together. I really look forward to our Spring and Fall rides.

“PRINCIPLE M” 这个名字有何寓意？伴随着品牌一路走来，您有什么感受？Whats the story behind the name "PRINCIPLE M"? How do you feel as you look back on your journey with the brand?

原则（Principle）是我们日常生活中不可或缺的部分，我很喜欢 Principle 这个词和它所代表的含义后缀“M”代表男装，赋予了品牌独特的性别魅力“Principle M”作为品牌名称，不仅生动响亮，更能够让我们与目标客户群体建立链接。

Principles are important to have in life. I like this word and the meaning it carries. We added an "M" which can stand for menswear and together it sounded like a strong brand name that our client base can relate to. 

别惧犯错，保持好奇，常自问自答并改进正如中国谚语“千里之行始于足下”，我们应突破自我，探索新可能，感受自己下一步努力的方向Heed not the fear of error; let curiosity be your guide and perpetual improvement your goal. This perception is inspired by the ancient Chinese wisdom that "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." It encourages us to transcend our limits, venture into uncharted territories, and keenly anticipate the direction of our future endeavors, embodying a spirit of exploration and growth.。

/十多年前，Justin 在北京创立了 PRINCIPLE M，品牌新店也于去年秋天登陆侨福芳草地这段独特的定制之旅正在艺文绿洲进行，持续为现代人士提供优雅、完整的衣橱选择Justin founded PRINCIPLE M in Beijing over ten years ago, and this polished journey of customization is poised to continue unabated. 。

Last autumn, the PRINCIPLE M brand store landed at the Parkview Green FangCaoDi, offering modern business professionals elegant and versatile wardrobe options.

 PRINCIPLE M📍 L1-15A栏目介绍 About Bridging

《芳草碧连天》是一个基于侨福芳草地的人物志专栏，它以独特的视角，讲述每一位“人物”关于艺术与梦想的故事在这里，侨福芳草地扮演着一个巨大的文化枢纽，将形形色色的体验和生活方式连接在一起《芳草碧连天》将刊登于“侨福芳草地”微信订阅号，每期为你讲述一位曾与侨福芳草地相遇的人物故事，他们来自各行各业，背景各不相同，他们在这里展示着鲜活的人生经历，分享有价值的思考，带你体会侨福芳草地的文化魅力。

Bridging is a featured character column based on Parkview Green FangCaoDi, which tells the stories of arts and dreams of each "character" from a unique perspective. Here, Parkview Green FangCaoDi serves as a huge art and cultural hub, connecting diverse experiences and lifestyles. Bridging will be published in the "Parkview Green FangCaoDi" WeChat subscription channel, each issue is a story about the featured character and Parkview Green FangCaoDi, through all walks of life and different backgrounds, they are here to share valuable thinking, experiences, life and mindsets. The column brings everyone to enjoy Parkview Green FangCaoDi’s charm of art and culture.